FLATS

Flats are two-dimensional drawings of garments with all proportions and measurements made exactly to scale, like architectural blueprint drawings. These are also called technical drawings of garments without the croquis. Flat drawings on paper are like garments laid on a flat surface, hence the term Flats. When flats are accompanied by corresponding measurements, details and prints of garments, it is known as "specs" (short for specifications) and provide a definition exact enough to allow a garment to be constructed. These flats are known as "production flats." These are necessary to easily convey your design to pattern makers, dressmakers, and other technical experts. This way, it'll be easier for them to understand your design which is essential and a very vital part of producing the garment.

TEMPLATE

(left: Bodysuit/knitwear template; right: Bodysuit/knitwear template over 8-head croquis)
Tracing by: R.Oraya . 2016

Characteristics of Flats

1. Flats are symmetrical. The left and right sides of the garment are match exactly except for asymmetrical garments. To ensure your flat drawing is symmetrical, you can draw the garment from a center-front line, trace over that drawing, flip it and trace again to give it a mirror image for the other side.

2. As mentioned, flats are eight heads, reflecting real proportions. Same proportions with the nine heads but with legs one head shorter. Flats are drawn slightly wider and larger than garments on a nine-head croquis.

3. Flats should be first drawn in pencil (always use a very sharp pencil) and then inked in when correct. French curves and rulers should always be used.

4. Especially when beginning to draw flats, sketch on top of the eight head croquis templates and always indicate center-front line and make sure measurements are symmetrical on either side of that line.

5. All seams and other constructional details must be included in flats, drawn to the scale of the garment. For garments with sleeves, arms are drawn away from the body in order to show the silhouette of the sleeves. If sleeves contain details on the underside, one or both arms can be shown bent at 45˚ angle so the detail is revealed.

Precision of Line

- Lines used in flats have to precise, smooth and with no jagged edges or wobbles so that the exact shape of the garments is made crystal clear.

- Flats, particularly when learning to draw them, are first drawn in pencil, but the final presentation is made using a fine point ink pen that produces a smooth, even line.

Materials for Drawing Flats

PENS:         0.5 for silhouettes

                  0.3 for detailing

                  0.1 for shadow on buttons, pockets, collars, etc.

PAPER:       Layout or copy paper

                  Tracing paper

MARKER:    (for shading) ---10% grey

RULER:       6” Transparent plastic

FRENCH CURVE

ERASER

WHITE-OUT CORRECTING FLUID

PENCIL SHARPENER (Electric sharpeners are best)

*Marks used on knitted garments to show where parts of the garment are sewn to the main body - Diagonal lines

* Usual lineweight for drawing flats, made with a 0.3 pen

*Blind stitching (evenly placed dots on the stitched part), made with a 0.3 pen

*Usual lineweight for shading flats made with a 0.1 pen. Strokes are of your choice.

*Saddle stitching, made with a .01 pen for the horizontal line and 0.3 pen for stitches.

*Top stitching (consecutive evenly placed dash lines), made with a 0.1

*Double-needle top stitch (two rows/columns of parallel topstitching), made with a 0.1 pen.

Drawing Tailored Jacket Flats

Traced Tailored Jacket by S.Abas, 2016

1. Establish center-front and position of buttons. The tailored jacket shown above is single breasted, so the buttons will be on the center-front line. Space evenly by marking the center of each button.

2. Draw in the opening of the jacket by extending lines from the center front to the breakpoints of the collar on each side.

3. Add buttons, then the roll of the collar hugging the neck, and drawing a slightly curved line form the neck to the break point.

4. Repeat on the other side. (Note that this line will extend to the imaginary break point on the other side of the jacket. If this is done correctly, the ends of the collar rolls will be at the center front.)

5. Establish the finished length of the coat.

6. Make allowance for the thickness of the shoulder pads (incorporate into the croquis).

7. Establish the hem line shape at the front and pencil in. Again, measure from center-front to check symmetry.

8. Add on the “shell” of the jacket.’

9. Ink in details and add buttonholes (usually keyhole on tailored jackets).

10. Add top stitching (if any)

11. Add shading to give depth under the collar, lapel and back.

Note: Tailored jackets generally have two-piece sleeves. Do not forget to show the seams.

Flippover Flats

A common way to draw flat is, drawing on tracing paper, to draw half flat, fold the drawn half under the paper so it becomes its mirror image, trace over that onto the other half under the paper so it becomes its mirror image, trace over trace over that onto the half of the paper and open out the paper with the complete flat. This technique can save time and ensures the flat will be symmetrical about the center-front line.

Traced Flats

Flat: Sleeves with ribbons (H. Anggana, 2016)

Flat: Blouse with puffed sleeves (by H. Anggana, 2016)

Flat: Round-necked Sweater (H. Anggana, 2016)

Flat: Polo with a classic collar (H. Anggana, 2016)

Flat: Three-fourths puffed sleeve (H. Anggana, 2016)

Flat Drawings (with Shading)

Three-piece Executive Suit
Illustrated by N. Caparoso & R. Oraya, 2016

Blouse and Pencil Skirt
Illustrated by R. Oraya & N. Caparoso, 2016

Sources:

 Sanchez, L. (n.d.). Children and Children's Clothing [PPT]. 

Tasks of Group Members:

Tracer/s   Abas, Sweet Childe
   Anggana, Hanah Sherry
   Oraya, Rumiko Zeina

Illustrator/s
  Oraya, Rumiko Zeina
  Caparoso, Nicole Karen
  Varron, Joaliza Valere

Description/s
  Armamento, Glizza Marie

Scanner:
  Subingsubing, Ericka
  Rosas, Alexa Venice
  Young, Diana

Blog Manager

   Armamento, Glizza Marie

   Anggana, Hanah Sherry